Before Installation of Ceramic and Porcelain
Being prepared for the installation of your ceramic or porcelain floor will help ensure that the whole process is done smoothly and efficiently. Knowing what to expect will also make things less stressful on you, your family, and your home.
Hire a Pro.
Installing a ceramic or porcelain floor is difficult work, labor intensive and extremely exacting. We strongly recommend that you call upon a reliable, experienced professional to install your ceramic floor and to insure a beautiful, efficient and correct installation.
Even though we are recommending that you hire a professional, such as those with America's Floor Source, there are some aspects of the installation process that will be useful to you before, during, and after installation.
The Substrate.
The process of setting ceramic or porcelain tile begins with the preparation of the tile foundation, or the substrate.
Common materials used as tile substrates in home installations include concrete, plywood, and drywall.
Your installers will prepare the substrate by different methods, depending on the substrate material, and where the installation occurs.
Each substrate has its own unique set of issues and is prepared according to industry and manufacturer guidelines.
Once the substrate is installed, it most be cleaned. Dirt, moisture, and oil can interfere with the adhesion of the tile.
Next, the installers will level the surface of the substrate to provide a strong support base for the tile, and to ensure that the individual tiles will appear flat when installed. If the substrate is not level or flat, the result could be tiles not being set correctly, possibly causing chips or cracks when weight is applied.
Once the substrate has been leveled, it may have a waterproofing layer applied to it or require an anti-fracture membrane. Both of these materials are important in installations where the tile is frequently exposed to moisture, such as in kitchens, bathrooms, and exteriors.
Evolution of Tile Setting.
In the past, ceramic tile was installed using what is called the thickset or mud set method. In this method, a thick layer of mortar was applied to a waterproofed and steel reinforced substrate, providing a strong, flat base onto which the tile was installed. The thickset method is effective, but it's an involved and labor-intensive process. An alternative method was searched for and found.
Today, many tile installers have opted for the industry accepted and more efficient thinset method, where the tile is adhered directly onto a backer board that is nailed to a plywood or concrete substrate using a much thinner layer of mortar.
This backer board is called a CBU, or cement backer unit, which provides a supportive and water resistant layer between the porous substrate and the mortar and tile applied on top of it.
Layout Plan.
Once the substrate has been prepared, the next step is to create a layout plan. This plan shows the dimensions and layout of each room. The installer will use this plan to estimate the amount of product needed, and to anticipate any installation issues that may be caused by architectural features like stairs, transitions, and cabinets.
The installers will also use the layout plan to determine the pattern and orientation of the installed tile.
Chalk.
A chalk line is commonly used to lay down a guide for the installer. This line leaves a temporary line that can be used as a straight guide.
Installation.
Next, a single row or column of tile is laid directly on the substrate without adhesive. Another row or column is then added perpendicular to the first, forming the shape of a "T", giving the installer a starting point for their tile setting.
Once the installer has determined the correct layout, the next step is to apply the adhesive mortar to the substrate and lay the tile.
Grout.
Once the tiled floor has been set into place and left to fully cure, usually 12 to 24 hours, the grout is applied.
Grout is available in a wide range of colors, and in sanded, unsanded, and epoxy forms.
Sanded grout is commonly used for grout joints that are wider than 1/8th of an inch. This type of grout joint is typically used with floor tile because it helps strengthen tile joint and it will not sag after it is cured.
Unsanded grout is used with narrow grout joints typically found with wall tile and many natural stone installations.
Immediately Following Installation.
The mortar and grout need 24 hours to cure before walking on the tile, ensuring that the tiles won't shift or become loose before the adhesive thinset mortar and grout have a chance to set.
In some installations, the tile may be mopped daily for several days to prevent the grout from cracking, pulling moisture from the underlying mortar, or curing unevenly.
Water and Moisture.
When installing tile in any interior wet area, we strongly recommend that the floors and walls of the area be waterproofed before you tile.
Before installation day
Move Furniture.
You can either remove your furniture yourself, or we can remove it for you at an additional cost. If we are moving your furniture, please empty all china cabinets, entertainment centers and other pieces of furniture.
Moisture Control.
Be aware that the area of installation must be climate controlled (heated or air conditioned). Indoor humidity should be maintained between 45-65%.
Removal of Old Flooring
We can remove your old flooring. Please contact us for a breakdown of your options and charges, including disposal of the old flooring.
If you prefer to remove your present floor covering, do it at least one day prior to installation. Please remove any tack strips and pull the staples out of the floor from the original pad.
Trim
In most cases, moldings and baseboards need to be removed for ceramic or porcelain installation. Your installer can do this at an additional charge. America's Floor Source cannot be responsible for damage or breakage due to dry or brittle wood.
Painted baseboards, woodwork and paint may need retouching after the installation is complete. If necessary, this is your responsibility. Often, new trim is used.
Sub-Flooring Preparation.
Your existing sub-floor may need to be prepared to receive your new ceramic or porcelain floor, or a new sub-floor may be required. If you think there's any chance that the sub-floor will need attention, please bring this to our attention, and we will inform you of your options and the associated costs.
Door Plan.
When ceramic or porcelain flooring is installed, doors - especially closet doors and basement or bedroom doors - may not clear the new floor and swing free.
We will remove doors in order to install the tile and re-hang them if possible.
Clean Up.
Installing a ceramic or porcelain tile will produce waste. Usually, these materials are collected by your installer and left at your trash collection site. Please let us know before installation if you desire us to haul away the waste.
Installation Day
Be Home.
Please be at home the day of installation and be available to answer any questions that the installation crew may have. Your presence will ensure a number of details, such as in which room or rooms the ceramic or porcelain tile is installed, what pattern the installer follows, and other details.
Keep Your Family Safe.
Your installers will have and use tools and techniques that can make the work area hazardous. Please make sure that your children and pets are kept out of the work area on installation day.
Do A Walk-Thru.
We recommend that you walk through the job with the chief installer prior to the completion of the installation. This walk through will allow you to ask questions and receive clarification on any final details.
After Installation
Ventilate.
If you are sensitive to dust and odors, good ventilation should be established for 48 to 72 hours after installation.
Wait.
Do not walk on your new tile floor for 24 hours after installation. The mortar and grout need time to set.
Follow Instructions.
Your installer will tell you if there are any additional special instructions that must be followed following installation. For example, the tile may need to be mopped daily for several days to prevent the grout from cracking, pulling moisture from the underlying mortar, or curing unevenly.
